The Care and Breeding of Children's Pythons (Antarasia
childreni)
by Justin Julander, Australian Addiction Reptiles
Introduction
Children's pythons come from the
North of Australia and on some offshore islands (Barker and Barker,
1994). John Grey named this python after his former mentor and
supervisor, John Children. They are also called the faded python due to
the reduction of pattern as they mature. Children's pythons start
out as vividly patterned snakes, which in time becomes reduced as they
mature. They inhabit many different habitats, and because of this
adaptability are well suited to do well in captivity. In the
wild, children's pythons feed on lizards and frogs when young, and may
include some mammalian prey as adults.
Care
These small pythons are easy to
maintain if basic needs are met. These, as well as all pythons,
need a thermal gradient so that they may choose from a range of
temperatures, which temperature they need to do a certain job.
These jobs include digestion of food, reproductive cycling, energy
conservation, and many others. No one temperature will suffice
and a range of temperatures must be provided. I keep my
children's pythons in cages with stacked hides below a basking
light. This allows different levels of heat at the different
levels of hide boxes. The snakes can therefore choose which level
they want to get a certain temperature. The use of an infrared
temperature gun makes this job of temp monitoring an easy task.
These tools are very useful and I recommend getting a thermal temp gun
to anyone that is keeping reptiles. Temperatures are everything
with reptiles, so be sure you know what temps your captives are allowed
to use.
I keep pairs or trios in a spacious
terrarium with sand as a substrate. The sand is replaced when
needed, and spot cleaned weekly. Care must be taken when housing
multiple snakes together that they do not attack each other during
misguided feeding responses. Water is provided in a bowl that can
not be easily tipped over. In addition to the dry leveled heated
hides, I also provide a moist hide filled with slightly damp green
moss. This allows the pythons to choose a more humid environment
when needed. If these basic needs are met, little problems will
arise.
The most important aspect of keeping
reptiles is observation. As all setups and methods of keeping
animals vary, there is no one way. The snakes know best what they
need, and their needs must come over any care sheet. For example,
if you read a care page that says a snake needs a constant 80 degree
heat spot and you follow that advice and the snake is always under the
heat lamp out in the open, this is telling you the snake is not getting
high enough temperatures. This is where you must understand what
the snake is telling you and adjust your care appropriately. Many
are under the misconception that if they follow exactly the methods of
someone who has had success with an animal, they they will also have
success. This couldn't be more wrong, and the only useful
information is gleaned from the animals themselves. Watch and
listen to what your snakes are telling you, and only then will you be
successful.
Feeding
Hatchlings are sometimes reluctant
to take pink mice as a first meal. If the needs are met, then
starting hatchlings on mice will be much easier. I once had a
hatchling that refused mice. One day, the heating went on the
fritz and the room became lethally hot. Many of my adult breeder
snakes that were close to the heat source died, but one picky hatchling
that would not eat, began feeding after the high temperature
surge. When I have a group of hatchlings, I will first make sure
they have the proper thermal gradient (70-100 degrees Fahrenheit) and
then will try live pinks straight out of the nest. Some will feed
on the normal pinks, but for the others I will wash the pinks and give
these "unscented" to the snakes. If they still are reluctant I
will use some shed skin from some of my Australian knob-tailed geckos
to trick the hatchlings into thinking it is a lizard. This
usually works for all my pythons.
Adults will take full grown adult
mice their whole lives. They are small enough that a few adult
mice makes a good meal. There is no set regimen and I usually
feed breeder snakes heavily before and after breeding season.
They can be ravenous, and I have even had females that were incubating
a clutch of eggs eat mice during incubation. Snakes must be well
fed and heavy bodied to be ready for a reproductive event.
Breeding
These pythons are extremely easy to
breed, and it's basically just a matter of putting a male and a female
together. At my facility, there is a natural temp drop in the
winter, but I will offer food year-round as the snakes still have
access to temps conducive for digestion. The snakes will choose
lower temps on their own and will cycle in the thermogradient
provided. During the cooler months, the snakes will breed
actively. Males will sometimes refuse food during breeding time,
and then females will usually follow suit once they are gravid.
This is nice, because you only have one snake to feed during the
breeding season. Again, it is important to provide the female
with adequate food to allow for egg production. About 90 days
after copulation, the female will lay her eggs and coil tightly around
them. Eggs are usually laid in the moist hide, and care must be
taken to keep the moss slightly damp for good humidity.
Females can incubate the eggs
maternally or the eggs can be removed and set up in a pre-warmed
incubator. I keep the incubation chamber at 89 degrees F +/- a
few degrees. A little fluctuation in temperature is not
detrimental in most cases. As moisture in incubation media such
as pearlite or vermiculite will vary it is best to leave that to the
person with the eggs in hand, as no one level of moisture will work for
everyone. I recommend leaving the incubation medium on the dry
side. Eggs can be killed by too much moisture as well as too
little, but it is easier to reverse the effects of too little
moisture. Monitor the eggs weekly or as desired to make sure the
eggs look healthy. Dead eggs that mold will not spread mold to
healthy eggs, so, unless the eggs is easily removed, the egg can be
left in with the others.
Eggs will hatch after about 2
months, depending on incubation conditions. Patience is important
during egg incubation, and clutches of eggs can be messed up if the
keeper is impatient. If all the eggs in a clutch have pipped
except 1 or 2, these unpipped eggs may be gently opened, taking care
not to injure the small snake inside. The hatchlings will emerge
from the egg with plenty of yolk as energy supplies. I usually
set them up similarly to the adults, except individually and in smaller
cages. The snakes must have a feeling of security, with tight
hide spots to feel comfortable. I usually wait a week or two
after the hatchlings shed before offering food items. The
hatchlings will grow quickly as they feed.
Summary
Well, that's the basics of
children's python care and breeding. This species can be very
rewarding to work with and is a great addition to any collection.
Their small size and easy maintenance requirements make them great for
beginners and advanced herpeteculturalist alike. Again, to be
successful with this and other species of python, make sure you observe
and listen to your snakes so their needs can be met.